Mitre Saws
Last updated: June 14, 2026
Stop guessing your angles and ruining expensive timber. I have spent years in workshops and on-site, and I can tell you that a cheap mitre saw is a false economy. By June 2026, the market is flooded with plastic rubbish, but these five saws are the only ones I would trust to cut a decent joint for a customer's kitchen. Whether you need a portable slider for skirting or a beast of a flip-saw for heavy framing, I have cut through the marketing nonsense to find the tools that actually work.
How we rank these products
Our rankings combine real-time UK consumer interest data from PriceSpy with structured analysis of key specs like video quality, stabilization, battery life, and value for money. We continuously update rankings to reflect both market trends and product performance. We also highlight key trade-offs and use cases to help you choose whatβs actually right for you.
What changed this month?
For June 2026, we have finalised our list of the most reliable mitre saws that actually hold their calibration after a week on a building site. This selection focuses on motor longevity and the precision of the mitre detents, which are the first things to fail on cheaper models.
Dewalt DWS773
π Best for General DIY
A compact, no-nonsense sliding mitre saw that gets the basics right without the unnecessary fluff.
If you are looking for a reliable workhorse that won't take up the entire boot of your car, the DWS773 is the sensible choice.
Reasons to buy
- βInternal rail design allows for use against a wall
- βLightweight enough to carry one-handed
- βThe motor has enough grunt for thick oak
What will annoy you (The brutal truth)
- βThe stock blade is mediocre and leaves a rough finish
- βLacks the XPS shadow line system found on more expensive models
- βDust extraction is largely decorative
Dewalt D27107 with Stand
π Best for Professional Site Work
A heavy-duty flip-over saw that combines a mitre saw and a table saw into one massive unit.
This is for the serious tradesman who needs versatility on-site and has the muscle to move it around.
Reasons to buy
- βIncredible versatility with the flip-over table function
- βThe included stand is rock solid on uneven ground
- βInduction motor is surprisingly quiet for its power
What will annoy you (The brutal truth)
- βIt is heavy enough to be a genuine health and safety risk to your lower back
- βSwitching between mitre and table modes is a bit of a faff
- βThe price tag will make your accountant weep
Dewalt DWS774
π Best for Precision Cutting
An upgraded version of the 773 featuring the XPS shadow line for perfect cut alignment.
The DWS774 is the sweet spot for those who value accuracy over raw cutting capacity.
Reasons to buy
- βXPS shadow line never needs calibrating unlike lasers
- βVery smooth sliding action even after months of use
- βCompact footprint is ideal for small workshops
What will annoy you (The brutal truth)
- βThe plastic guard feels cheap and brittle
- βLimited cutting depth compared to 250mm+ models
- βThe trigger handle can feel cramped if you have large hands
Metabo KGS 216 M
π Best Budget Pick
A feature-packed saw that punches well above its weight class in terms of value.
Metabo has managed to cram a lot of features into a saw that costs significantly less than the yellow competition.
Reasons to buy
- βExcellent LED work light and laser guide included
- βVery easy to transport with the ergonomic carry handle
- βTable extensions are actually sturdy enough to be useful
What will annoy you (The brutal truth)
- βThe laser guide gets covered in dust and becomes invisible within minutes
- βThe mitre scale is a sticker that can peel off over time
- βNot as robust as the Dewalt models for heavy daily use
Dewalt DW712
π Best for Workshop Use
A classic, large-capacity mitre saw built for accuracy and longevity.
The DW712 is an older design, but it remains a favourite for those who want a saw that stays square.
Reasons to buy
- βLarge horizontal cutting capacity for wide boards
- βThe mitre adjustment mechanism is incredibly precise
- βSolid aluminium base that won't warp
What will annoy you (The brutal truth)
- βLacks modern features like LED lights or shadow lines
- βThe sliding rails stick out the back, requiring more bench space
- βIt is an older model that feels a bit dated compared to the DWS range
Still not sure which one to buy?
Join the Smart Spenders community! Talk to real buyers, ask questions about specific models, and make sure you are getting the absolute best deal.
Ask the Community βThe No-Nonsense Guide to Buying a Mitre Saw
Buying a saw isn't just about the colour of the plastic. It's about whether the thing can actually cut a 45-degree angle twice in a row.
Sliding vs. Non-Sliding
If you are only cutting architrave and skirting, a non-sliding saw is fine and often more accurate. However, if you're doing decking or wide floorboards, you need a slider. Just remember: more moving parts mean more things that can go out of alignment.
Blade Diameter Matters
A 216mm blade is the standard for most UK DIY and light trade work. If you go up to 250mm or 305mm, you get more depth, but the blades are more expensive and the saw becomes a nightmare to carry. Don't buy more saw than you can lift.
The Myth of Dust Extraction
Let's be honest: no mitre saw has 'good' dust extraction. They all spray sawdust everywhere. Look for models with a standard 35mm port so you can at least hook up a proper shop vac, because those little cloth bags are useless.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use these saws to cut aluminium?
Only if you swap the blade for a multi-material or non-ferrous metal blade. Use the wood blade on aluminium and you'll ruin the teeth and likely send shards of metal into your face.
Why is my saw not cutting square anymore?
Usually, it's because you've bumped it in the van or the detent plate has worn down. Most pro-grade saws have adjustment screws to 'true' the blade back to the fence. Check your manual and stop being lazy.
Is a laser better than a shadow line?
No. Lasers get knocked out of alignment and covered in dust. The XPS shadow line system uses a light to cast the actual shadow of the blade onto the wood. It is foolproof and never needs calibrating.
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